Known for its abundant streams, dramatic geology, natural springs, ubiquitous wildlife, and the fact that it is the migratory flyway for monarch butterflies and other creatures, the Texas Hill Country ranks as a favorite July Fourth getaway.

That was my destination for the weekend, to remove my three favorite dogs–Brisket, Cacteye and Chicabomba–from San Antonio where  firework shows send them into anxious episodes of panting and shivering, and get them to a peaceful place, away from the ruckus.

But Mother Nature had other plans.

Early on the morning of July 4 and following an insane spring (100+ degree temperatures in May and a recent tornado), the area was doused with as much as 15″ of rain in a few hours in some areas. In Kerrville, a popular destination on the banks of the Guadalupe River about 60 miles northwest of San Antonio, a “rain bomb” apparently parked itself above the area, dropping five inches of rain per hour.

Rain gauge only measures 5″ but apparently we got 10″-12″. –Photo by Monika Maeckle

Given the Hill Country’s limestone escarpments and rocky, soil-deficient landscape, combined with rain events of prior weeks, most of that rain drained down into creeks and rivers, causing dramatic rises, historic flooding and all around catastrophe, especially in the Kerrville area. As of this writing, at least 43 people have died and dozens more are still missing.

Sadly, the beloved Hill Country camps where many parents send their children for weeks-long nature adventures in the summer turned deadly for some this year. I cannot imagine sending a child off for summer camp and losing them permanently to a flood. That happened this week.  The Community Foundation  of the Texas Hill Country has created the Kerr County Flood Relief  Fund, for those who’d like to help. Donate here.

The Texas Butterfly Ranch sits on the watershed of the Llano River, which is not far from Kerrville. According to the Lower Colorado River Authority, surrounding areas of our ranch received 10-12 inches of precipitation on July 4.

I was planning to come out to the ranch on Thursday but had a last minute change of plans. Then Friday the rain drama unfolded and it appeared unsafe. I drove out early this morning to check on things. While I encountered no scary low water crossings en route, lots of disruption was evident along the Llano.

My friend Jenny Singleton, who introduced me to monarch butterflies two decades ago, had a terrifying wake-up call at her San Saba River ranch in Hext. Singleton told me they experienced 12 inches of rain in several hours. “The water was inches from our door,” she said. Her husband woke her up and told her to pack a bag, that they needed to seek higher ground, but a temporary water hollow blocked their exit. Fortunately, the rain subsided, as did the rising water.

  • Cacteye checks out the arroyo stream, which is running again.

All photos by Monika Maeckle

Sitting on our porch at the Texas Butterfly Ranch right now is like looking at a lake. Typically we  see a relatively modest stream on the far side of the broad watershed. You can usually hear slight rushing of the river, but with all that’s happened it’s quite the roar. On the other side of that watershed sits a grove of pecan trees where the monarchs roost each fall.

After my arrival this morning, the dogs and I undertook a quick walk. My two kayaks, which I paddled gladly last Sunday are gone, as are the picnic tables. A deer feeder washed away, myriad downed trees occupy the river bank, many clogged with detritus–in short, a dramatic change of scenery from the placid scene on Sunday, just days ago.

My three canine companions had a blast charging through downed grass and splashing in new pools. They seem to know better than to go in the rushing River. More rain is predicted tonight. Our road took some abuse. showing washed out rivulets, despite the fact that we recently installed erosion control blankets on the steep sides.

Bluebonnets in July! –Photo by Monika Maeckle

Good news: the streams that feed from our property into the Llano are running again. Lots of butterflies are nectaring on the clammyweed, Mexican hat  and surprisingly, we have bluebonnets! Bluebonnets typically show themselves earlier in the season, but we added fresh seed recently when installing the erosion control blankets.

It will take some time for the water to be absorbed and the river to return to its typical flow. Clean-up will be costly and time-consuming. But these inconveniences pale in comparison to what many are suffering.

On the Llano River last Sunday. –Photo by Monika Maeckle

Rivers are famously irreverent and have a mind of their own. In the past two years especially I’ve noticed dramatic changes in our stretch of the Llano River that I’ve known so well for over two decades. The Llano keeps reinventing itself. This is classic riparian behaviour, apparently.

For more than 20 years, we have enjoyed a predictable paddling route, a good 40-minute loop that provides good perspective on the health of the river and the Chigger Islands which occupy it. This is how I check on the Swamp milkweeds that grow in predictable stands among the Chigger Islands.

Until recently we  always paddled through what we called “the cut,”  which was a two-foot wide passage between two Chigger Islands that allowed one to cross the Llano, paddle upstream and make a complete loop.

Not any more. Recent rain events have refashioned the river, creating new passages, blocking others, uprooting trees, and causing others to bend in submission to repeated floods. Not much we can do about that but adapt.

On another note, it would appear that we are out of “extreme drought,” where we have been residing for years. I’ll  be interested to see the updated drought map when it drops next week.

Thank you to family, friends and readers for reaching out and asking about our welfare. We are fine, appreciate your concern, are grateful for the rain, and empathetic to the loss and suffering others have experienced.

TOP PHOTO: A wooden bench, detritus from upstream, nestles in the flooded Llano River watershed at the Texas Butterfly Ranch

Help if you can. Click on the picture to donate.

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